PARIS STREET TREES

THE GREEN STREETS OF PARIS; STREET TREES SHADE PARISIANS AND SHED LIGHT ON  ITS ARBOREAL HISTORY  

Notre Dame, Paris, France
Notre Dame, Paris, France

Walking the streets of Paris is a favorite pastime of ours, so much that we must plan for days of unplanned walks between engagements and gatherings. Once the time is established for wholehearted play in France’s City Of Trees, the walks become serendipitous wanderings that carry us through the Paris of centuries, where discoveries are made, and adventures are had, in which we cross through the boundaries of sight-seeing into the daily routines of Parisians. We know we have made that special entry into the streets of Paris when we have  wandered off into a district   accidentally and we find ourselves at once very much part of the routine, and at the same time experiencing it as fresh observers. We are waiting in line in a patisserie to get those fresh croissants and a baguette (for later) and then find ourselves looking for a delicious cheese in the neighborhood grocery, so we can keep walking, stopping all along the way in the many small parks that have been established all throughout the city. The first part of our venture is assembling a picnic, which we spend the afternoon eating as we go along.

The exploration of Paris has been a varied experience, ranging from grand vistas of the city attributed to the visitation and ascension of  the astounding monuments that have attained global iconic status to the most modest nooks and tiny staircases. Little houses snugged between late 19th century apartment buildings. We have discovered streets completely devoid of trees wide enough for a horse cart.  Often times we will end up spending the remainder of the day in a newly discovered neighborhood, starting out at the local cafe ordering deux cremes s’il vous plait (two expressos with milk, please), after which we window shop at the various businesses and most likely we come across a community garden and we always stop and sit down at the local city park for our picnic. In Paris neighborhoods there are always surprises, like a squatted vacant lot that has become an urban farm, complete with a cardboard box of free vegetables, or a roman amphitheater tucked into a hillside, which has been transformed into a neighborhood park.  We get a feel for the day-to-day life and the history; every neighborhood has its own atmosphere, on some blocks even a mood; the sense of place in Paris has an impressive imprint  on visitors and Parisians alike.

The trees of Paris streets has become a fascinating subject as we have become more interested in trees generally and as we have explored more and more of the city. Street trees especially have been something of a matter of discussion as we observe our own street trees in our fair city, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Street trees have become a subject of importance for city dwellers, and we have been navigating this subject for a few years now. What a better tableau than Paris to bring it up! Our explorations of Paris have been pleasant and enjoyable and truly educational on so many levels, especially those considering the ecology of the city. We find that Paris and Philadelphia  share much in common with each other at the curbside; like our trash collection and recycling, our street trees are also related genetically.

You are invited to stroll the streets of Paris with us, and admire and discuss the trees!

Honey Locust, Paris, France
Honey Locust, Paris, France

Our exciting adventures through the neighborhoods of Paris have revealed to us the most crispy croissants on the outside and the tenderest on the inside as well as the most favorite street trees of the past quarter century, the American Honey Locust! Like the Parisian croissant, the American native Honey Locust delivers a satisfying one two three deliverance of product that truly gets the job done: An attractive tree, fast growing, and easy maintenance: In the fall,the tiny leaflets just blow away from the site.  This tree is a favorite street tree.

Honey Locust, Paris, France
Honey Locust, Paris, France

Great fall color too. The Honey locust has adapted to the urban environment beautifully. It is embraced in Philadelphia as well, and can grow out of large pots too. A truly successful street tree requires minimal maintenance, and the ability to withstand harsh conditions. The tiny leaves of the Honey Locust are its biggest advantage in its street tree role, by just blowing away at the end of the season.

As for problems, the Honey Locust has a few which we should be aware of: The genetic provenance of the street trees planted is weak, which means that most of the trees are derived from a few (at best) selections of the best varieties, and while these varieties have the most characteristics favoring street tree optimization, they may fail  prematurely in the sudden disease category. Genetically selected species are ones with a specific genetic blueprint, often one suited for a specific characterization, such as a preferred growth habit, flowering habit, etc., but not necessarily with a long term plan or survival strategy. What we are suggesting here is that a street planted up entirely with Honey Locusts that have been selected out genetically for their great adaptiveness, may end up a liability in the long run as these trees may be more susceptible to disease and blight, leaving the street vulnerable to falling and dead trees as well as a complete loss of them.

 

Linden tree, Paris, France
Linden tree, Paris, France
Linden tree, Paris, France
Linden tree, Paris, France

Walking from The Louvre to Place St. Michel, there is a pleasing row of Linden trees along the Seine. These trees have an attractive light green seed in the summer months, which contrasts nicely with the dark green spade shaped leaves. As for growth habit, the first Linden tree picture says it all!

Linden tree, Paris, France
Linden tree, Paris, France

There is a lot of room along the Seine, and the city allows these trees to express their natural growth habit, something often not seen in many streets, especially in the suburbs.

Linden tree, Paris, France
Linden tree, Paris, France

Street trees of the same kind, planted in long rows have an aesthetic appeal that is especially fitting to cities. In Paris, mature, matching trees in a row speak volumes about the sense of place they provide; there is a grandiosity that is particularly  fitting to the capital of France and the seat of French culture. They are an extension of the French Garden-into the streets these enormous sylvan caryatids are unleashed unto the city in every direction, gracing in symmetrical equilibrium the magnificence of the boulevards and the buildings. These street trees lead us into the Garden of the Tuileries, the Luxembourg Gardens, The Invalides,  in a perfect continuum from the built environment into the carefully planted, cultivated and purposely unbuilt one. In this manner, the street trees of Paris carry a cultural significance as they extend the ideal of what we now call the French garden into the city streets, to be enjoyed by all.

Jardin des Plantes, Paris France
Jardin des Plantes, Paris France

Here is an example of the French Garden, with the symmetrical arrangements of trees and garden beds as well as a central formal axis leading to an important structure, one that defines the property, such as a chateau or palace.  This French garden is unique in that its repetitive garden beds are a museum of plants, exhibiting a diversity of plants that extend across the globe, some of them even considered weeds!

In this setting, the French Garden is more than appropriate, as it has become a backdrop to the study and classification of plants. The formal layout serves the observer by being a routine context that allows the visitor to focus on the plants themselves and less on the garden setting.

 

So close and yet so far, we find ourselves in another neighborhood altogether.

Paris, France
Paris, France
Paris, France
Paris, France

On many streets of Paris, there are few to no trees. There is little room for them.

Horse Chestnut, Le Raincy, near Paris, France
Horse Chestnut, Le Raincy, near Paris, France

In this picture we can clearly see how the trees are pruned top-to-bottom in a square fashion in the Paris suburb of Le Raincy. These Trees are Horse Chestnuts, and they line both sides of the street and go as far as the eye can see.

Horse Chestnut, Paris, France
Horse Chestnut, Paris, France

Along the Seine, the Horse Chestnut is allowed the luxury of uninhibited growth, and this tree fulfills the promise of unabated beauty along the water! The dark branches in contrast to the leaves is stunning.  This European tree, with a very small range of indigenous habitat in eastern Europe, had become vastly popular as a street tree.

Horse Chestnut, Paris, France
Horse Chestnut, Paris, France

Along the water, in the fall, the Horse Chestnut provides a distinctive texture, in this case a contrasting of colors and silhouette  against the watery backdrop of the Seine.

Horse Chestnut, Butte Aux Cailles, Paris, France
Horse Chestnut, Butte Aux Cailles, Paris, France

Found throughout the city, the Horse Chestnut as a species, is the dominant tree across many a park and blocks of streets.

In this park in the Butte Aux Cailles neighborhood we enjoyed pain au chocolat, which is a croissant filled with chocolate from the local patisserie, just the thing after arriving in Paris from a transatlantic overnight flight!

In that sleepless and disoriented state, the idea of the street trees of Paris, as a subject, came into focus.

Horse Chestnut, Quartier Des Iles, Paris, France
Horse Chestnut, Quartier Des Iles, Paris, France

Paris is included among the most grand of cities that is full of spaces in beautiful locations that are just there and have become an afterthought of urban planning, these spots being the ones left behind in the overall visions of the many city-makers through the centuries. Sometimes these places become interesting as charming nooks and crannies that make for a pleasing urban experience, and most often they are just paved over or allowed to become overgrown with weeds. The specific nook pictured above, came into the world with the intention of creating a pleasant space to view the river, but somehow has fallen short of its goal, and remains neglected.

However, it has allowed great views of the Horse Chestnut trees that serve to soften the hardened urban landscape, giving the Seine a more naturalistic look, something the river itself sorely lacks in Paris due to the much needed flood control walls erected to protect the city.

Perhaps shrubs could be utilized as a complement to the trees.

Mimosa Tree, Rue d'Armaille, Paris, France
Mimosa Tree, Rue d’Armaille, Paris, France

Albizia julibrrissin

Paris, full of surprises, offered us this unique view of the Mimosa, being utilized as a street tree, planted in a neat row. Usually this tree is found growing alongside railroad tracks or in a vacant lot as an invasive weed tree. It seeds itself aggressively, and we are always removing seedlings from our yard and Morris Park.

Mimosa Tree, Rue d'Armaille, Paris, France
Mimosa Tree, Rue d’Armaille, Paris, France

Pruned nicely, these Mimosa do create an elegant row of specimens.

Empress Tree, Av Carnot, Paris, France
Empress Tree, Av Carnot, Paris, France

 

Up the street, we are confronted with the Paulonia tomentosa, the Empress tree. Also one we are not used to seeing as a street tree, (except for Logan Square in Philadelphia).

These are grand specimens, growing in the near vicinity to the grandiose, awesome and iconic Arc de Triomphe.

Empress Tree, Av Carnot, Paris, France
Empress Tree, Av Carnot, Paris, France

Also a weed tree, the Empress is a nuisance when left untended and unnoticed until it is a problem. This fast growing asian native has beautiful purple flowers, but throws out seeds that like to grow out of the sides of buildings. From the picture above, even the city of Paris has had some difficulties trying to get these specimens to grow in an elegant and controlled manner.

Cherry Trees, Le Raincy, near Paris, France
Cherry Trees, Le Raincy, near Paris, France

These Japanese Cherry Trees were planted three years ago in the Paris suburb of Le Raincy.

Cherry Trees, Le Raincy, near Paris, France
Cherry Trees, Le Raincy, near Paris, France

All in a row. It is very interesting to see what is being planted, and in what sorts of arrangements-a single species in rows, small trees, large trees, or a variety of trees. What is being planted tells as much of a story as that which has been planted over the years.

Japanese Cherrys are widely planted in Philadelphia, and they have beautiful, much admired blooms in the spring. They have escaped into Morris Park and other natural areas in and around the city.

Tree of Heaven, Bd de L'Hopital, Paris France
Tree of Heaven, Bd de L’Hopital, Paris France

We found the Tree of Heaven, the Ailanthus altissima, growing in a neat row adjacent to the Jardin des Plantes. This was another interesting discovery, given the history of this tree and its evolution as a specimen tree and street tree in Europe and the U.S.

Tulip Poplar, Butte Aux Cailles, Paris,  France
Tulip Poplar, Butte Aux Cailles, Paris, France

The American Tulip Poplar, Liriodendron tulipifera, has been discovered by the French. Here, this tree is being sold on the street in Paris. We have found it being planted along streets in Paris as well. This fast growing tree grows a very straight trunk, has attractive leaves and magnificent tulip sized orange flowers. As a street tree, it poses a problem because the wood is weak and the branches are easily broken off, creating a potential danger to property and life.  Maybe the City Of Paris can keep up on the maintenance of the Tulip Poplar enough to mitigate this issue.

London Plane, Champs-Elysees, Paris, France
London Plane, Champs-Elysees, Paris, France

Saving the best for last, dear readers, we have found ourselves on the Champs-Elysees in Paris, one of the most iconic streets in the world, one of the most visited and celebrated, it is a street that lives up to its mythology, it is awe-inspiring and truly memorable; its grandiosity and stature have reached a global definition of the formal road, where there is a location and a direction that can easily identify a nation and a history.

The Champs-Elysees is a proud boulevard and it defines a formal elegance, unmatched and much noticed and appreciated.

London Plane, Champs-Elysees, Paris, France
London Plane, Champs-Elysees, Paris, France

The Champs-Elysees, this aesthetically pronounced allee of magnificence and stately grandeur is lined with the London Plane, a storied tree worthy of its place in the history of street trees.

London Plane, near the Louvre, Paris, France
London Plane, near the Louvre, Paris, France

Platanus x acerfolia

Alongside the Louvre, the Plane tree has been planted, and we are among the privileged to see them in their mature and healthy state.

London Plane, near the Louvre, Paris, France
London Plane, near the Louvre, Paris, France

On this block, London planes are still being planted to replace the ones that have died.

London Plane, Jardin Des Plantes, Paris, France
London Plane, Jardin Des Plantes, Paris, France

The London Plane, a cross between the American and Asian Sycamore has been a favorite street tree because of its ability to withstand harsh conditions.  In its natural environment, these trees are found along waterways.  In the South of France, they have become diseased, caused by the fungus Ceratocystis platani  and many of them are being destroyed.  The disease has been found to have originated from ammunition casings made of the American Sycamore wood, brought over by American soldiers in WWII.

If the disease reaches Paris, there could be a devastating loss of street trees, from the Champs- Elysees to the Jardin Des Plantes as well as throughout the city. The idea of an allee of identical trees may become a questionable practice as whole streets become treeless in one episode of blight, like the American Elms that were destroyed by the Dutch Elm Disease, rendering whole towns across America treeless. Some streets in Paris are already showing signs that the city is bracing itself for the worst: new trees being planted are of a different species than the dominant, breaking the tradition of continuity and implementing a practice of diversification. With street trees, the lesson is about not putting all of your eggs in one basket as the saying goes.

Exploring Paris has been fun and educational on many levels, the street trees being the latest subject of interest. Observing and thinking about them has been eye-opening in that we can get an understanding of the history of the city by the trees that have been planted and where, how old they are, how they are being maintained, and what is being currently planted. The landscape reflects a botanical history of the city; what is of interest and desire, and what foreign trees the city is willing to plant.  Trees have also taken part in the aspirations of the city, as well as the nation, maintaining and reflecting the ideals of a society and its relationship with the natural world.

It is encouraging to see that ecological concepts are being utilized in some areas, respecting that of genetic diversity and the appropriate responses to plant diseases and their causes.

London Plane, Paris, France
London Plane, Paris, France

One more thing as we saunter through the city of Paris: The more we learn of the city and the more we discover of its past, the more we learn about where we live, by contrast and comparison alone. When we consider cities as ecologically relevant, as places for human ecosystems to maintain themselves, this ideal is served so much better by the observations of the concerned.

It is well worth the trip, especially when we bring our observations home.

Please join us again for our next adventure!
Please read our article Americans in Paris for more!

 

 

AMERICANS IN PARIS

American expats lounging about in Parisian gardens. They live rent-free just because they are unique and exotic Americans. The Parisians lust for them and they show off their prized Americans every chance they can. The Americans feel perfectly content and justified in their exalted status here in France. They are not treated as well in America. They are often brushed to the side in favor of some Asian ornamental plant.

Virginia Creeper in Paris, France
Virginia Creeper in Paris, France

Parthenocissus quinquefoilia

This American vine has got the best apartment in town, with the best view. All because it has a beautiful fall color, a deep crimson red, and exotic blue berries on a red stem. It is a great ground cover as well, not to mention its attractive leaves which are highly ornamental. This is a loved American vine in Paris.

Virginia Creeper in the Paris suburb of Aulnay-Sus-Bois, France
Virginia Creeper in the Paris suburb of Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France

The above pictured Virginia creeper is often brushed aside while the Parisian native vine English Ivy, Hedera helix, gets the hot real estate in Philadelphia.

As the saying goes, the grass is always greener on the other side.

Tulip Poplar in Paris, France
Tulip Poplar in Paris, France

Liriodendron tulipifera

The Parisians love this fast growing very straight and tall American tree with orange and green tulip shaped and sized flowers.  It is easy to see from the French perspective that if well-placed, our Tulip Poplar could be an excellent specimen tree.  In this location, there are no buildings that will be damaged from the branches that will inevitably break off in the future.

It was so much fun to see our Tulip Poplar being celebrated in Paris.

Trumpet creeper vine in the Paris suburb Le Raincy
Trumpet creeper vine in the Paris suburb Le Raincy

Campsis radicans

This vine is so common throughout Paris and the south of France that it could be misinterpreted as a native very easily.  The Campsis radicans vine speaks French with a perfect accent for every region of the country it is grown. It has been introduced and cultivated in France since the 1700s.  There are even cultivars of this vine that were originated in Europe!  It is loved in France and it loves France!  In the south of France, there are old vines with stems six inches in diameter!

A botanical Francophile to be sure. We did not see any evidence of it escaping cultivation or becoming invasive either.  (but then again, who knows what will happen in the bigger picture).

With all of the fanfare and the hype around this plant in France, we cannot ignore the bright red tubular shape of the flower, designed in the process of evolution for the pollinating Hummingbird, a bird that is found only in North America. This is a botanical feature of the plant that is a dead give-away of its North American nativity.

Trumpet creeper vine in the Paris suburb Le Raincy
Trumpet creeper vine in the Paris suburb Le Raincy

As a garden ornamental, the Americans are not very enthusiastic about the Trumpet vine. ( if we are wrong on this in a regional context, please speak up, we want to know the truth).  The fact that the French love this plant is somewhat endearing, however we remain skeptical because it is not a native plant to this part of the world.  It could still become invasive.

Sweetgum in the Paris suburb Le Raincy
Sweetgum in the Paris suburb Le Raincy

The above picture is the Sweetgum. here it is being proudly displayed as an ornamental in the distinguished Paris suburb of Le Raincy. We ran across this tree in our adventures. We had taken the Parisian commuter train called the RER to the train station of Le Raincy, a town we had been to many times, the home of Isabelle’s brother. However we had never arrived in Le Raincy from the RER before, and we immediately were lost. We were invited for dinner and we wanted to be on time so there would be no waiting or associated anxieties.   We get off the train at the station and we find ourselves in a part of town unfamiliar to us, but full of great architecture.

But now we were even more lost.  A kind 70+ year longtime resident of Le Raincy directed us in the right direction and even walked with us for 10 blocks until she tired. She sent us toward our destination in this magnificent suburb just east of Paris. We felt so welcome.

Homes in Le Raincy France
Homes in Le Raincy France

We were still lost and it was getting late. Dinner was in just five minutes!  We viewed and photographed the Campsis radicans, the American trumpet vine along the way, and we stopped at a Jewish grocery and bought a bottle of kosher Bordeaux.

Now, we were still lost and completely on our own to find the right street. Isabelle saw the American Sweetgum, liquidamber stryaciflua, in the planted -up median between the tram and the street. (Now we were in familiar territory, because we know this tram line quite well).

If Sean sees this we will be sidetracked and even more late. He will want to take pictures, inspect the leaves, the bark, the fruits- I know this tree just from a glance.

It was getting dark and we were now running late for dinner and still officially lost, despite finding our familiar tram line.  However, the American Sweetgum was planted all along the roadway, between the tram tracks and the automobile road.

Sean finally noticed the American sweetgum and immediately stopped in his tracks.

Isabelle! Stop!

What?

Pointing emphatically.  Isnt this the Liqiuidamber stryaciflua? The Sweetgum?

Yes, I believe it is. Said Isabelle.

The picture was taken and the fruit was observed in haste and within minutes we found ourselves in familiar territory, finding the street Isabelle’s brother lives on. Only five minutes late!  Just long enough to identify an American plant in France.

So there we have it, The French love our Liqiudamber stryaciflua, the Sweetgum.

Pokeweed in Paris, France
Pokeweed in Paris, France

Phytolacca Americana

The Pokeweed is as American as Ben Franklin, our most famous American in Paris. It has been introduced in Europe for so long that it is found throughout the continent.

The dark juice from its berries has be reportedly used as ink to write drafts of the Declaration of Independence. Ben Franklin was a printer and must have known about this plant.

Pokeweed is found throughout  France, along the railroad tracks, in gardens as weeds and in cultivation.

This plant more than any other, is a living articulation of the long and detailed history between France and the United States of America.

Staghorn Sumac in the Paris suburb of Bussy-St-George
Staghorn Sumac in the Paris suburb of Bussy-St-George

Rhus typhina

The French have fully embraced our Staghorn sumac as an ornamental.  It is everywhere.  This is a great large shrub that is almost completely ignored in America.  It is left on the side of the road as a weed. From time to time it is found in an ornamental position in the States.  In Philadelphia it has been brought into cultivation as an ornamental along the new Schuylkill River Park in Center City.  It is great to ride bikes or walk along this section of the river and see the magnificent specimens of Staghorn Sumac being presented as ornamental beauties, only to cross the river at the Art Museum and see them growing as uninvited weeds along West River Drive, just a few paces away!

Staghorn Sumac in the Paris suburb of Bussy-St-George
Staghorn Sumac in the Paris suburb of Bussy-St-George

It is somewhat amusing to see plants that Americans dismiss in favor of Asian ornamentals being exalted in Europe.  However it’s the same story on the other side of the pond.  There was a point in time when having a unique and different plant in your yard was a sign of status, and this boosted the importation of foreign plants. This practice has been carried to such an extreme that it is almost expected to have foreign plants in your yard, so much so that fines are being exacted upon those that grow native plants!

The cultural aesthetic of landscaping is dominated by plants that may look pretty in our yards, but can become severe pests in the natural areas we live amidst, and we are seeing this pattern unravel in France .

For the most part at this time, most of the invasives in France are Asian ornamentals that have behaved for a few years and then have suddenly gone berzerk, like the Butterfly bush or the Tree- of -Heaven.

Our native plants introduced in France, in the bigger picture, are at risk of becoming the next ugly Americans.